Oceanography The Official Magazine of
The Oceanography Society
Volume 30 Issue 03

View Issue TOC
Volume 30, No. 3
Pages 120 - 125

HANDS-ON OCEANOGRAPHY • Assessing Cross-Shore and Alongshore Variation in Beach Morphology Due to Wave Climate: Storms to Decades

Shari L. Gallop Mitchell D. HarleyRobert W. BranderJoshua A. SimmonsKristen D. SplinterIan L. Turner
First Paragraph

PURPOSE OF ACTIVITY. Long-term observational data sets of beach profile variability and underlying trends that have been measured regularly and uninterrupted for several decades are very rare (Barnard et al., 2012, 2015; Kuriyama et al., 2012; Splinter et al., 2014; Pianca et al., 2015; Turner et al., 2016). Only a few sites around the world have sustained routine decadal-scale monitoring of the coastline, with notable examples that include the US Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility in the United States (http://www.frf.usace.army.mil), the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Station in Japan (http://www.pari.go.jp/unit/​edosy/en/main-facility/2.html), and Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach in Australia (http://www.narrabeen.wrl.unsw.edu.au). These unique data sets are critical for understanding how beaches respond to processes over a range of time scales, including storms that last hours to days, interannual climatic cycles such as the El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO), and longer-term processes such as mean sea level rise. This type of knowledge is essential for predictive modeling and for making appropriate coastal management and planning decisions. A key skill set for coastal scientists and engineers is the ability to critically analyze, present, and summarize such data, as well as to link changes in the beach profile to forcing conditions. Therefore, the purpose of this activity is to utilize a novel and freely available online resource of beach profile data from Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach in New South Wales, Australia, to assess how the subaerial beach and the shoreline position vary (1) spatially due to alongshore-​variable wave conditions, and (2) over multiple time scales in response to changing wave conditions and climate cycles.

Citation

Gallop, S.L., M.D. Harley, R.W. Brander, J.A. Simmons, K.D. Splinter, and I.L. Turner. 2017. Assessing cross-shore and alongshore variation in beach morphology due to wave climate: Storms to decades. Oceanography 30(3):120–125, https://doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.2017.304.

References

Barnard, P.L., D.M. Hubbard, and J.E. Dugan. 2012. Beach response dynamics of a littoral cell using a 17-year single-point time series of sand thickness. Geomorphology 139–140:588–598, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.​2011.12.023.

Barnard, P.L., A.D. Short, M.D. Harley, K.D. Splinter, S. Vitousek, I.L. Turner, J. Allan, M. Banno, K.R. Bryan, A. Doria, and others. 2015. Coastal vulnerability across the Pacific dominated by El Nino/Southern Oscillation. Nature Geoscience 8:801–807, https//doi.org/10.1038/ngeo2539.

Casella, E., A. Rovere, A. Pedroncini, C.P. Stark, M. Casella, M. Ferrari, and M. Firpo. 2016. Drones as tools for monitoring beach topography changes in the Ligurian Sea (NW Mediterranean). Geo-Marine Letters 36:151–163, https://doi.org/10.1007/s00367-016-0435-9.

Delgado, I., and G. Lloyd. 2004. A simple low cost method for one person beach profiling. Journal of Coastal Research 20:1,246–1,252, https://doi.org/​10.2112/03-0067R.1.

Emery, K.O. 1961. A simple method of measuring beach profiles. Limnology and Oceanography 6:90–93, https://doi.org/10.4319/lo.1961.6.1.0090.

Harley, M.D., I.L. Turner, A.D. Short, M. Bracs, M. Phillips, J. Simmons, and K. Splinter. 2015. Four decades of coastal monitoring at Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach: The past, present and future of this unique dataset. Pp. 1–6 in Australasian Coasts & Ports Conference, September 15–18, 2015, Auckland, New Zealand.

Harley, M.D., I.L. Turner, A.D. Short, and R. Ranasinghe. 2010. Interannual variability and controls of the Sydney wave climate. International Journal of Climatology 30:1,322–1,335, https://doi.org/10.1002/joc.1962.

Harley, M.D., I.L. Turner, A.D. Short, and R. Ranasinghe. 2011. Assessment and integration of conventional, RTK-GPS and image-derived beach survey methods for daily to decadal coastal monitoring. Coastal Engineering 58:194–205, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2010.09.006.

Harley, M.D., I.L. Turner, K.D. Splinter, M. Phillips, and J.S. Simmons. 2016. Beach response to Australian East Coast Lows: A comparison between the 2007 and 2015 events, Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach. Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue 75, Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium, Sydney, 6-11 March 2016:388–392, https://doi.org/10.2112/SI75-078.1.

Kuriyama, Y., M. Banno, and T. Suzuki. 2012. Linkages among interannual variations of shoreline, wave and climate at Hasaki, Japan. Geophysical Research Letters 39, L06604, https://doi.org/10.1029/2011GL050704.

Pianca, C., R. Holman, and E. Siegle. 2015. Shoreline variability from days to decades: Results of long-term video imaging. Journal of Geophysical Research 120:2,159–2,178, https://doi.org/10.1002/2014JC010329.

Pietro, L.S., M.A. O’Neal, and J.A. Puleo. 2010. Developing terrestrial-LiDAR-based digital elevation models for monitoring beach nourishment performance. Journal of Coastal Research 26:1,555–1,564, https://doi.org/10.2112/07-0904.1.

Ranasinghe, R., R. McLoughlin, A. Short, and G. Symonds. 2004. The Southern Oscillation Index, wave climate and beach rotation. Marine Geology 204:273–287, https://doi.org/10.1016/S0025-3227(04)00002-7.

Short, A.D., and N.L. Trenaman. 1992. Wave climate of the Sydney region, an energetic and highly variable ocean wave regime. Australian Journal of Marine and Freshwater Research 43:765–791,

Splinter, K.D., I.L. Turner, M.A. Davidson, P. Barnard, B. Castelle, and J. Oltman-Shay. 2014. A generalized equilibrium model for predicting daily to interannual shoreline response. Journal of Geophysical Research 119:1,936–1,958, https://doi.org/​10.1002/2014JF003106.

Turner, I.L., M.D. Harley, A.D. Short, J.A. Simmons, M.A. Bracs, M.S. Phillips, and K.D. Splinter. 2016. A multi-decade dataset of monthly beach profile surveys and inshore wave forcing at Narrabeen, Australia. Scientific Data 3:160024, https://doi.org/10.1038/sdata.2016.24.

USACE (US Army Corps of Engineers). 1984. Shore Protection Manual. Coastal Engineering Research Center, Vicksburg, MS.

Wright, L.G., and A.D. Short. 1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis. Marine Geology 56:93–118, https://doi.org/​10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2.

Wright, L.D., and B.G. Thom. 1977. Coastal depositional landforms: A morphodynamic approach. Progress in Physical Geography 1:412–469, https://doi.org/​10.1177/030913337700100302.