Reading and reviewing this book is one of my more memorable moments as a scientist and a surfer. I actually read it while flying over the Pacific Ocean and going to sea on the R/V Atlantis from Easter Island to Tahiti. I had plenty of opportunities to look at the ocean and relate to the descriptions provided, such as crossing ground swells, short period seas, and capillary waves forming on a calm, glassy sea. As a professor in oceanography and a surfer, I thought I had a pretty good understanding of how swells and waves formed before I read this book. Now I realize that there is much more to know and that details related to the transfer of wind energy to ocean swell energy are still not understood.